Beyond War: Mediterranean Couture

While traditional French houses are trying to reinvent Haute Couture, some new talents are vigorously reinterpreting the laboratory of craft during this Paris Couture Week. Coincidence or not, most of them come from the Mediterranean.

If some of them such as Lebanese Tony Ward or Georges Hobeika preferred to stay in their comfort zone with beautiful but conventional dresses, the young compatriot Rami Kadi impressed again with his tendency to use old techniques (from basketry or tapestry) but in a modern and alternative way. The sequins heated in the oven become petals that he put on the lace and the french knots were embroidered over and over in some pieces that had taken 600 hours to be made.

“As young designer, I avoid the ‘princess gowns’ and I try to do a neo-couture, with modern dress,” said Rami Kadi.

We are also closely following the Syrian-born fashion designer Rami al Ali. After his debut in Paris Couture Fashion Week in 2012, this native from Deir ez-Zor, a city currently in a war zone, has been attracting more and more attention. Despite his very traditional style, he also goes after the contrast between classic shapes and modern techniques while maintaining a high level of craft.

Another country and another vision of Couture with Dice Kayek, the French-Turkish house, who this season at Musée des Arts Décoratifs presented a collection that was less obviously focused on embroidery than usual, preferring to draw attention to the beautiful shapes on display. Unclear if it was the effect of the flat shoes or the discreet “neo-Pierrot” make up but the Dice Kayek woman seems less fragile than usual – still feminine but with much stronger than before. According to the designer the collection, entitled Woven Tales, “is a daydream of couture” – a fitting description of her work. •

Paris Couture Week in Paris, France, from 24–28 January 2016.

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Rami al Ali Couture Spring/Summer 2016.