The current hybridisation of disciplines typical of contemporary global creation has influenced jewellery just like any other field. For several years, the fundamental gap between accessories and objets d’art has progressively narrowed. Cross-disciplinary—and almost undisciplined—artists are boldly entering the field of contemporary jewellery. Going beyond its materiality, contemporary jewellery is a practice that questions the current era. Contemporary jewellery is a kind of performance. Mediating between the self and the other, it works in concert with different media, crossing aesthetic, technical and discursive barriers to propose a reflection on our existence through our bodies, which are indispensable links in the chain. For the sixth edition of the European Triennial for Contemporary Jewellery, organised by the WCC•BF, Françoise Vanderauwera, curator for Belgium, has opted for a dynamic selection of artists who are upending conventions. Brune Boyer for France and Sofia Björkman for Sweden are presenting varied, innovative pieces that mirror the creative process and the questions of our time.
Casually Dropped Pearl Necklaces, 2016
Papier 160 gr, impression laser, découpages à la main / 160-gsm paper, laser print, paper cut-outs by hand
© Liesbet Bussche
The pearls on the necklace of Belgian artist Liesbet Bussche owe their delicate existence only to the backdrop upon which they lie. The work is a poetic conception of a presence made possible by absence.
Ex-voto 5, 2017, Hip necklace, Corian, pâte de verre, skai, heat-shrinkable sleeve
A mosaicist by training, Belgian artist Isabelle Carpentier uses this technique to make her ex-votos, mysterious and mystical objects that invite the viewer to see this kind of offering, anchored in the collective unconscious, in a new way.
Sugar stay or sugar go?, 2017, Sugar, copper, cotton. Drilling, riveting, yarning
© Patrick Marchal
Belgian creator Patrick Marchal faces consumerist culture head-on. His powerful and exuberant works here give way to the discourse both sweet and bitter of his sugar jewellery. It is also on exhibit in parallel at the Centre d'Innovation et de Design au Grand-Hornu in Mons.
A grave for today, 2015,
Welded steel frame, sand- and laser-cut oak
© Eve Wolfs
Belgian designer Eve Wolfs creates her models as witnesses of current movements, behaviours, mores and lifestyles. With A grave for today, the sculptural dimension of contemporary jewellery reaches its apex.
Silhouette, 2015, Brooch. Iron, silk yarn
© Matthieu Gauchet
The Silhouettes brooches by French artist Céline Sylvestre evoke the questions of the weight of memory and its representation in an aesthetic quest for balance between present and past, absence and presence.
Hand mirror, casting, brass
© Marine Dominiczak
With her mirror with a tentacled handle, French artist Marine Dominiczak questions the cult of beauty and the excessive practice of aesthetic surgery in South Korean society.
Steel, silver, spray paint. Silversmith techniques and spray painting
Photo: Linnéa Eriksson
Linnéa Eriksson, a Swedish artist, finds her inspiration in an urban environment and the geometric shapes of the city. She combines artisanal jewellery techniques and modern street expression, all expressed through the bright colours of spray paint.
HELENA JOHANSSON LINDELL
Synthetic fruits, 2016
Plastic, wood, brass, aluminium, polyester. Assemblage
© Helena Johansson Lindell
Swedish artist Helena Johansson Lindell challenges hierarchies by showcasing materials and techniques to which society gives little regard. A touch of kitsch makes her jewellery into tools to use against the established order.
Frozen Moment: Night Sky, 2017
Brooch. Polymer, 14K gold, magma sand, titanium, crushed marble. Mixed techniques, goldsmithing
Photo: Jelizaveta Suska
Pieces by Swedish artist Jelizaveta Suska give the illusion of a frozen moment of nostalgia, of a paused image. In her work, abstract ideas find a material form in polymer and crushed marble.