Kadeau: An Ode to Bornholm in Copenhagen

“The backbone of our cuisine is the nature of Bornholm – wild and cultivated. We care for traditions, yet strive to renew. Our cuisine is regional, yet we are inspired by the whole world. We grow, harvest, preserve, serve, and love Bornholm.”

Kadeau (an Ode, a Tribute) is a new culinary destination by young Michelin chef Nicolai Nørregaard. The Dane originally started out in 2007 with his celebrated Bornholm restaurant. By crossing the Baltic Sea to land on the continent, in Copenhagen, Nørregaard has cultivated a clear vision on how to shift his islander mindset for a capital audience: urban and international guests. Even though the adventurous food design experience of Kadeau on Bornholm Island will always remain an original starting point for Nørregaard, his vision for implementing a restaurant in Copenhagen has come to fruition. Bringing with him all the expected ingredients (herbs, vegetables, fruits, berries, and local suppliers) and contemporary crafts (ceramics and glass), the chef not only represents the Nordic trend – strongly connected to nature – but is also deeply involved in connecting his ‘regional’ cuisine to high-end Nordic design brands like Grand Cuisine by Electrolux and Dinesen.

When describing the ‘site specificity’ of the Bornholm restaurant – that received his one Michelin star at the end February – Nørregaard states: “Kadeau is there, right on the beach. It’s all about what’s outside, natural, anonymous, open fireplaces and barbecues. I had the experience of cooking in the middle of nowhere. Switching to the city, my view as an islander was to let people experience an open kitchen right in the middle of a room. Low or high tech, with smoke and fire, my language is food, inspired by Asia. I like the concept of keeping a trace of the environment, of giving the illusion of a child memory, to be rough and raw, close to nature and integrate this approach with a sophisticated connection to food.” Garde Hvalsøe and Electrolux have adapted kitchen appliances and tools by using wood materials: soft textures and scents provided by Dinesen. “Forgetting the context, living in ‘suspended time’ at Kadeau, was how we designed the restaurant,” says Thomas Lykke of OeO Studio. “We wanted to go beyond the New Nordic trend, to explore the emotional connections and memories from our childhood. At Kadeau, there are two cooking islands and a long wall, which comprises an original fireplace and high tech Grand Cuisine ovens. The choreography is shown to the guests who can observe the ‘dance’ and movements as well as they can speak to the chef. ‘Smoke’ was the starting point for OeO, a subtle icon of the humble islander. The interior was designed with no windows, no doors. Only a bell allows you to enter. A  long corridor with oxidized copper plates and IC-Lights by Michael Anastassadies for Flos opens up to a large space blending kitchen and dinning room. On the walls, engravings by Danish-Israeli artist Tal R, reveal women in various poses. Next to it, there is a relaxing area with beautiful wicker lounge chairs by Arne Jacobson, which perch on a garden view. All together: the interior is a celebration of high-end Scandinavian craftsmanship.

Defending the qualities of Nordic cuisine, Nørregaard sought to create a holistic experience, reaching the senses through food arrangements and tastes. In Bornholm, he did so by creating a unique environment. In Copenhagen, the urban universe was entirely reversed. Nørregaard felt that his guests should feel that they were dining at home or with friends. By collaborating with Danish design studio OeO – Thomas Lykke & Anne-Marie Buemann – Kadeau now immerses its guest in a very intimate time and space. We could think of being in Kyoto, elsewhere in Japan or in Scandinavia, where a lot happens behind the curtains. Chosen design partners have teaming up together in order to create a shared sense of quality and craftsmanship. By supplying a bespoke and dark finished herringbone parquet floor and wood for the two cuisine work stations, Dinesen collaborated with Garde Hvalsøe to design this hardwood furniture, which blends seamlessly with the restaurant interiors conceived by OeO. For the kitchen appliances, Electrolux Grand Cuisine introduced, next to the large fireplace, an ultra-luxury range of kitchen appliances. “More than 50% Michelin star restaurants work with Grand Cuisine and now, this high-end cooking range can now be used in homes. Built in Italy but designed in Sweden, Grand Cuisine is handmade. This appliance was co-created for Kadeau by Dinesen and Garde Hvalsøe: applying wood to the kitchen following the renowned Danish cabinetmaker tradition.”

21-steps menu at Kadeau, on 25 Feb. 2016

Broth of razor clams, roasted sugar kelp, and ceps

Blackcurrant, leek, and kohlrabi

Grilled oysters, kale, parsley, and hemp

Pickled vegetables, fresh cheese, September tomatoes juice and chamomile

Mahogany clam, elstar apples, fermented wheat, pickled pine cones, and flowers

Onions, matured cheese, yoghurt whey, lemon thyme

Withered sorrel, potatoes, smoked cod roe, and lovage

Langoustine, walnuts, carweed, and salted scallop roe

Smoked celeriac, caviar, woodruff, fermented white asparagus

Cold and warm smoked salmon, elderflower, gooseberry and fig leaf

Grilled mussels, chewy yellow beets, spinach

Pickled pumpkin, garlic, sunflower seeds, cheese fat

Roasted bread, herb butter infused with cherry wood embers

Matured sirloin, ‘Havgus’ cheese, preserved mushrooms

Pork rack roasted in the fireplace, black garlic, blackcurrant, salted flower buds

Ember baked red beet, grilled blue cheese, pickled beach rose, lamb heart

Caramelized buttermilk tart, silver fir cones, cowslip syrup

Fermented raspberries, white currant juice, and walnut schnapps

Crispy sourdough with caramel of oak buds

Juniper cookie with quince and thyme

Berries, honey, and pollen from our garden