Neo-Couture: The New Generation Reinterprets Tradition

The Spring/Summer 2015 Haute Couture shows have ended, confirming Paris as the global capital for fashion innovation and craftsmanship. But this season, even if many designers followed the strict codes and traditions of couture, others strove to break out and modernize the discipline. Tradition was honored in the display of unique artisanal techniques, evidenced by the spellbinding and much admired collection by Franck Sorbier, the only French couturier to have been officially recognized as a national Master of Art (Maître d’Art), but also in conventional collections by French designer Stéphane Rolland and Lebanese designer Georges Chakra, or by the brash collection presented by the British duo Ralph & Russo.

Far more impressive were more subtle collections by two (young, female, French) designers, both gesturing to the promising future of couture as a disciplinary practice as opposed to the mere opportunistic pastiche of the canon to be found elsewhere on the Paris podiums. Yiqing Yin left behind the dreamlike world of organic matter and mutant creatures that had almost become her signature in favor of a silhouette in which the body became the fundament for the shaping of fabric. The use of draped material offered a sophisticated contemporary vision of femininity.

The other discovery of this week was Stéphanie Coudert’s collection presented at the Institut du Monde Arabe. The staging in itself was original: the models paraded languorously through the space barefoot and en pointe, giving the audience time to connect with the movement of each outfit. Coudert delved into her own past, drawing on her early memories of the women of Iraq and Iran, war-torn countries that she discovered as a young child. The result was a surprisingly sensual palette of colors including coral-orange, off-white and black combined with painted motifs. The ample shapes, at times contained by small belts on the flowing gowns and suits, served to highlight a refined conception of beauty.

Coincidentally both these houses are directed by younger female designers, whose modern take on contemporary couture offers up a sophisticated and pared-down aesthetic designed for real women. •

Image 01 Franck Sorbier Couture – Spring/summer 2015
Image 02 Yiqing Yin – Spring/summer 2015
Image 03 Stéphanie Coudert – Couture Spring/summer 2015